Okay, let’s talk about tackling the wheel bearing on my trusty 2006 Grand Prix. It started making that familiar humming sound, you know the one, kinda like driving on rumble strips but constant. Got louder when turning one way, quieter the other. Classic sign of a bad front wheel bearing. So, I figured it was time to get my hands dirty.
Getting Started
First things first, safety always. I found a level spot in my garage, chalked the rear wheels, and loosened the lug nuts on the noisy side while the car was still on the ground. Makes life easier later. Then I jacked up the front end and got a solid jack stand underneath the frame rail. Never trust just the jack, folks. Took the wheel off and set it aside.
Taking Things Apart
Alright, now the fun begins. I needed to get the brake caliper and its bracket out of the way. Two bolts hold the caliper to the bracket, usually on the back side. I slid the caliper off the rotor and hung it up with a piece of wire – never let it hang by the brake hose. Then I removed the two larger bolts holding the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Once that was off, the brake rotor just slid right off the studs. Sometimes they stick, might need a tap with a hammer, but mine came off easy this time.
Next up was the big axle nut in the center. These can be really tight. I used my impact wrench, which made short work of it. If you don’t have one, a long breaker bar and maybe a pipe for extra leverage will be your friend. Just make sure you have the right big socket size first! After the nut was off, I pushed the axle shaft back slightly, just enough to disengage it from the hub spline.
The wheel bearing itself is part of the hub assembly on these cars. It’s held onto the steering knuckle by three bolts from the back side. Access can be a bit tight. I used a wrench and some patience to get those bolts out. Once they were loose, the old hub assembly sometimes needs some persuasion. A few taps with a hammer usually breaks it free from the knuckle.
Putting in the New One
With the old bearing out, I took a wire brush and cleaned up the mounting surface on the knuckle. You want a nice, clean, flat surface for the new bearing to sit against. I slid the new hub assembly into place, making sure the bolt holes lined up. It’s important to get the ABS sensor wire routed correctly if your car has ABS, which mine does. Just follow how the old one came off.
I started the three mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tightened them down evenly. You’re supposed to torque these properly, but let’s be honest, I just made sure they were good and tight using my wrench, going in a star pattern.
Then I pushed the axle shaft back through the new hub spline. Put the big axle nut back on. This one is important to tighten correctly. Again, my impact zipped it on, but you should really use a torque wrench to get the proper spec. An under-tightened or over-tightened axle nut isn’t good for the new bearing.
Finishing Up
Now it was just reassembly time, basically the reverse of taking it apart:
- Slide the brake rotor back onto the studs.
- Bolt the brake caliper bracket back onto the knuckle. Make sure those bolts are tight.
- Put the brake pads back in the bracket if they fell out, and slide the caliper back over the rotor. Tighten the caliper bolts.
- Put the wheel back on. Snug up the lug nuts.
Lowered the car off the jack stand. Once the tire was on the ground, I tightened the lug nuts properly in a star pattern. Don’t forget this step!
Took it for a spin around the block. Ah, sweet silence. That annoying hum was completely gone. Job done. Feels good saving some money and knowing I did it myself.
